The Canol Heritage Trail provides a walk through the nearly forgotten history of one of Canada's first mega-projects, in a landscape that is both captivating and intriguing.
The abandoned Canol Road winds its way for 372 km from the Norman Wells oilfield, across the broad plains of the Mackenzie River valley, through several mountain ranges, over the Mackenzie Mountain Barrens and up to MacMillan Pass on the Continental Divide, before passing into the Yukon and on towards Whitehorse. The route has now been designated the Canol Heritage Trail, and has been given National Historic Site status. Seasoned adventurers may want to tackle this route on their own, but guiding services can also provide tours along all or parts of the Trail.
The Canol Road project was conceived during World War II, when Japanese warplanes attacked petroleum installations in the Aleutian Islands of Alaska. With Pacific shipping and coastal facilities at risk, the Norman Wells oilfield was of immense strategic importance. Thus began a huge undertaking, to bring Norman Wells oil across a vast expanse of rugged mountains to Whitehorse, Yukon.
Between 1942 and 1945, more than $300 million was spent, and 30,000 people were employed, to install 1600 km of telephone lines, lay 2650 km of4- and 6-inch pipe, and construct an accompanying road to provide access to the pumping stations which lifted the oil over high passes.
In an amazing engineering feat, the construction was carried out entirely during the winter of 1943-44. Native people along the Mackenzie were employed as guides and river pilots, but were never employed in the actual construction, which was essentially an American military operation. In April, 1944, the first oil reached Whitehorse.
By the time the pipeline was completed, however, the Japanese had been driven from the Aleutian Islands, and the project lost its strategic imperative. The refined fuel produced in Whitehorse was very expensive, so in April of 1945, after less than a year of operation, the entire project was abandoned.
Pump engines and most pipe was salvaged, but a lot of other equipment was simply abandoned. Now, 50 years later, the remains of pumping stations, road camps, bridges and trucks can still be seen.
The raised roadbed provides an opportunity to traverse many portions of the route with relative ease (although not recommended for biking). But landslides and washed-out bridges make some areas impossible or very difficult to ford.
It is important to note that this is a rugged and isolated wilderness area, and the dilapidated military structures along the Trail should not be relied on for accommodation. The weather can be severe even in summer. Anyone considering traversing the entire Trail should arrange food drops along the Trail before setting out.
Outfitters in Norman Wells can arrange boat trips and/or air charters to the eastern trailhead. A variety of shorter excursions can be booked to see parts of the Trail. The western trailhead, at MacMillan Pass on the Yukon/NWT Border, can be reached by a very rough road from Ross River,Yukon.
For all not using an outfitter,it is important to report your trip plans to the RCMP in either Ross River or Norman Wells, and to check in with the RCMP at your destination.